Pruning

The main pruning on roses should take place around President's Day in mid-February into the first of March. If your roses are tall enough where they could break in the wind, you may prune them down to 3-4 feet in the fall. Secure climbers to protect from wind damage.

Striping any leaves which the wind may have missed and removing any that have fallen below the plant will help to limit disease problems such as black spot. Prune out any spindly canes and deadwood. The harder the pruning the larger and few flowers can be expected.

For hybrid tea roses, it is recommended to prune them down to 8-12 inches as they bloom best on new shoots. Pick three to five of the most sizeable and strongest canes to keep and prune out all others. Pick an nice outward facing bud and prune above it 1/8 inch at a slant away from the bud. The harder the pruning, the larger and few flowers can be expected.

For grandifloras and floribundas, some people like to leave more canes than a hyrid tea and prune them to a height of 18-24 inches.

Shrub roses bloom best on shoots that grow from last season. Prune out branches that bloomed last season, retaining all other shoots. Prune to shape.

In June, dead head after the first set of blooms down to the leaflet with 5 leaves.

Contact us for more detailed pruning questions.

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Dormant Spray

Dormant sprays which are applied while the plants are dormant can greatly reduce disease and insect problems. A lime sulfer solution should be sprayed on the canes prior to your final pruning in February. If you experienced a bad disease problem last year, you may want to do two applications 4-6 weeks apart starting in at the end of December. Spraying with dormant oil spray may help to reduce any over-wintering insects which may be present. Removing the leaf litter is often enough to reduce the pests that attack roses. A fresh mulch around the base of the roses will also help to prevent disease for next season.

Planting-

Roses need at least six hours of sun daily and prefer rich, loamy soil. Give them their own space, away from other plants, and make sure they do not stand in water.

BAREROOT ROSES- Bareroot roses are dormant roses with a basic root structure. Bareroot stock is usually available January through March before the warmer spring weather comes, and sensitive root hairs start to grow off the main roots. Soak the bareroot rose in a bucket with root stimulator and water from 3 hours to overnight before planting.

1. Dig a circular hole about 1 foot deep. It should be wide enough (at least 10 inches) to accommodate the plant's root system. Prepare the soil by working in compost or aged manure.

We recommend Gardner 'n' Bloome's Rose Planting Mix.

2. Trim off any broken roots or stems. Build a mound of soil in the bottom of the hole for the root crown to rest on. The mound will support the roots and hold the bud union (swelling at stem base) at ground level.

3. Hold the plant over the mound and fill the hole 2/3 full of back fill soil mixed with compost. Lightly tamp the soil down to remove air pockets. Fill with water and let soak in, then fill the remainder of the hole with soil, firming soil around the root system.

4. Trim canes back to about eight inches. Mist the canes with water as often as possible while your plant is getting started.

5. Be sure to mulch with extra compost or bark to retain moisture and nutrients as well as keeping disease down.

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ROSES IN POTS-Our roses are potted into containers in mid-February and are sensitive as they are rooting out into the pots. You should wait to plant these roses until they are fully leafed-out and take extra precautions to not disturb the developing root system. We recommend the pots be cut off rather than pulling the rose out of the pot. This can be done by removing the base of the pot in a circular fashion, placing the potted rose in the planting hole, slicing down the sides of the pot in three or four spots, backfilling with soil, and pulling the pieces of the pots away. If you have any questions, please contact Garland Nursery.

1. Roses in containers can be planted any time of year, providing the soil is not too wet.

2. Dig a circular hole wider than the root spread and a little over the depth of the pot.

3. Place the root ball in the hole careful to leave the bud union at ground level. Backfill with amended soil and water in to firm the soil and get out any air pockets.

Fertilizing-

When roses have fully leafed-out in May, start your first feeding. Use 1/2 strength recommended on the fertilizer for the first season's feeding. We recommend and use on-site:

Fertilome Rose Fertilizer with Systemic Insecticide or

Dr. Earth Rose Fertilizer

Continue to fertilize every four to six weeks or as directed on the label until August. This application will be your final feeding for the season.

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