|
|
Intended for personal
use, reprinted by permission from Garland Nursery.
|
I. CHECK SOIL MOISTURE
Il. CHECK DRAINAGE
|
|
III. PREPARE SOIL A. Planting Beds should be
developed to allow annuals, perennials, ground cover and small shrubs
to perform at their best. Loosen the soil to a 6" to 12" depth with a
spade or tiller. When clay soils exist, organic material should be added
and worked in. When grading or leveling planting beds, leave a slight
crown to the area. Plants will stand out more and roots will be raised
if poor drainage exists. B. Individual Hole amending
is an acceptable planting technique for trees and large shrubs. The existing
soil should be loosened and removed from the hole. Plant Balled Burlap
and Bare Root plants back into existing native soil. Container grown plants
need a similar soil to that in the container. or the roots will not be
able to grow out into the planting hole. A transition soil must be created
in the planting hole when the soil in the pot is of high organic content.
Mix 1/3 organic soil with 2/3 existing native soil for backfill into the
hole, around the roots. C. Mounding the soil will get
plant roots out of standing water in low areas or poorly drained soils.
When adding soil or organic material. till the new layers of soil into
the existing soil to create an interface for moisture and nutrient exchange.
Failure to create a transition can cause layering, poor water penetration,
toxic conditions, and root depth.
IV. PLANT A. Dig Hole about three times
the width of the root ball, and at the same depth as root ball. B. Refill the bottom of the
hole with enough loosened soil or soil mix so that the top of the root
mass is slightly higher than the surface when the plant is placed in the
hole. C. Fiber Pot grown plants give
you three planting alternatives: D. Other Container grown plants
must be carefully removed from the container. Avoid damage to roots that
have not yet fully exctended by gently placing root mass in planting hole. E. Loosen Roots carefully if
the root mass is in a hard root filled condition. Use a knife or pointed
stick on the roots at the sides and bottom to be sure the roots go out
and do not encircle root ball. F. Balled & Burlap Plants should
be planted in native existing soil and should not have the burlap removed.
Position in hole so the top of the root ball is a bit above surrounding
soil level. Refill the hole halfway. Untie string from around trunk of
plant and tuck burlap down away from root ball. G. Bare Root Plants are to
be planted in existing native soil. If drainage is inadequate, raise the
entire planting area to keep the roots out of standing water. Remove any
broken or damaged roots. Place roots over cone of soil in hole. Make sure
crown of plant is 1" above soil. H. Refill the Hole, working
the soil around the roots and taking care not to leave any air pockets.
Soak well. If possible, push hose end (with water on about 1/2 force)
into soil around perimeter.
V. FERTILIZE - Very Important
for Continued Healthy Growth A. Total Plant Growth will
be much faster if fertilizer is combined with loosened planting soil and
top dress with fertilizer just inside the perimeter of the hole. Never
put fertilizer on or near the trunk. Use a fertilizer that won't burn
newly forming feeder roots, such as Webfoot Jump-Start, Whitney Farms
organic plant food or Bone Meal. B. To Reduce Transplant Shock,
encourage vigorous growth, and to help develop 25% more feeder roots quickly,
apply Ferti-Lome Root Stimulator as soon as the roots have settled in.
For best results apply 3 times, 10 days apart.
Vl. STAKE A. Protection: Strategically
placed stakes may make a young plant more noticable or obvious. These
types of stakes are placed to make people aware that the plant is there. B. Anchorage: Newly planted
plants (especially bare-root plants) may have limited root systems which
cannot firmly anchor the plant to the soil. Staking, in this case, may
stabilize the plant until the roots are firmly established. Trees should
be tied loosely to the stakes, giving the tree an opportunity to anchor
itself as it moves with the wind. Staking should be removed after two
years. C. Support: Stakes used on
trees which may not be able to stand straight by themselves. D. Guying: Anchoring larger
plants with cables to ground-level stakes. Vll. PRUNE A. Bare Root Trees: Thin (Remove
selected branches) branches to bring top growth in balance with root growth
when imbalance occurs. Prune out any broken or damaged roots or branches. B. Balled & Burlap/Container:
Requires no pruning except to remove stray branches or to achieve a desired
appearance. C. Annuals & Perennials: Pinch
back when root and top growth are out of balance, and to encourage bushiness.
When pinching, leave at least three leaf intersections for the new growth
to start.
Vlll. WATER
|
||